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Ingredients FAQs
What is yeast nutrient and when do I need to use it?
Brewer's yeast requires an adequate supply of vital nutrients and trace minerals in order for it to carry out a healthy fermentation cycle. The nutrients and trace minerals the yeast needs are naturally present, in adequate quantities, in malted barley or manufactured by enzymes during the malting or mashing process. The addition of extra-prepackaged yeast nutrient to all malt extract beers is unnecessary. The only time that a home brewer needs to consider its addition is if you've used more than 40 percent adjuncts-that is, ingredients other than malt extract or malted barley. Yeast nutrients are recommended when making mead and wine.
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I want to use honey in my brew. How much should I use?
For beer making purposes, lighter honeys such as clover and alfalfa are considered the best because of the minimal contribution of strong flavors. But who really cares what the "norm" is-have fun experiment! Honey is highly fermentable and can contribute a dry crispness, lighter body and a high alcohol content without the off-flavors associated with refined white sugars. In order to maintain real beer character, it should be used in quantities of less than 30 percent. Quantities greater than this are not necessarily unpleasant but it does detract from what might be considered traditional beer flavor.

Honey does lack essential yeast nutrients, yet the addition of nutrients is not necessary when used in conjunction with malt extract.

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How do I use fresh fruit to flavor my brew?

Any fruit that tastes good to you can be used to flavor beer. Any fruit that is used should be pasteurized before its introduction to the fermentation. Care must be taken when pasteurizing the fruit so that it is NOT boiled because of the pectin content. If boiled, the pectin will "set" and create some problems with the beer's clarity among other things.

To pasteurize the fruit you can add it at the end of the boiling wort, turning the heat off and allowing the fruited wort to steep for 15-20 minutes at a temperature of 150-180 degrees F. A nylon mesh bag can be used for this purpose.

Fresh fruit should be cleaned, stemmed, and deseeded. It also should have its skin broken by crushing. Crushing is not necessary with frozen fruit, as the freezing process has already pierced the skin, allowing the juices to flow.

The fruit can be left in the wort and fermented in the primary, but should be removed after initial fermentation. Or it can be added to the secondary (you can pasteurize it prior to its addition). By waiting until the secondary fermentation the brewer has more control over how much time the fruit is in contact with the beer. Moreover it lets the brewer detect off-flavors before adding fruit. As for the risk of bacteria, the alcohol produced during primary fermentation mitigates the possibility of contamination. If only the fruit juice is used, straining is unnecessary.

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How much fruit do I add to my brew?

This is of course relative to how much you want to taste the fruit in your beer. But here's a list to get you in the ballpark and the amount can be tailored to suit your own taste.

  • Raspberry and Blackberry (fresh)-Use fresh very ripe berries at less than 1 lb/gal. wort to minimize haze.

  • Chili Pepper (fresh)-To stay on the safe side, add chili peppers to the secondary, let them steep a few days, and then taste the beer. If it needs more heat, add more and try again.

  • Cherry (fresh/frozen)-Use about 2 lbs/gal. wort.

  • Blueberry (fresh/frozen)-Use 2 lbs/gal. wort to get a good blueberry flavor. Use less for subtle flavors.

  • Strawberry (fresh)-Use 1.5 to 2 lbs/gal. wort.

  • Peach and Apricot (fresh)-Use 1.5-2 lbs/gal. wort. Cut into small pieces.

  • Mango (fresh)-Use 1.5 lbs/gal. wort. Chop before using.

  • Passion Fruit (fresh)-Use less than 1 lb/gal. wort. Slice before using.

  • Pumpkin (fresh)-Use 5-10 lbs/5 gal. batch.

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I heard this unnerving rumor that you can make pumpkin beer.
How does that work?
If using fresh pumpkin, an 8-pound pumpkin (fresh, not canned) ought to be a good place to start for a five-gallon batch. Deseed the pumpkin and remove the stringy pulp. Quarter the pumpkin and bake for 2 hours at 350 degrees F, or until it is tender. Remove from oven. Cut into 1-inch cubes, put in a nylon bag and add to the kettle with the spices, bittering hops, and malt extract-boil for one hour. Remove pumpkin chunks. Cool and pitch yeast.

If using canned pumpkin (yuck!) be sure it doesn't have preservatives of any kind in it (otherwise it can inhibit yeast fermentation) and empty the contents of a 2 lb can into a nylon bag. Boil for one hour with malt extract, hops, and spice. Cool and either strain wort into primary or siphon off the sediment and into the primary. Pitch yeast.

I want to make a heather ale. How much do I use?
14-18 cups of dried heather tips should be a good ballpark for 5 gallons of wort. If you can get fresh, use 10-14 cups pressed flowering heather tips. This is an open amount so as to adjust to one's palate.

At boil, add half of the heather tips. Add the remaining half at the end of the boil. When the gravity hits 1.015, remove 1 gallon of ale in a stockpot, bring it to a simmer and steep 3 cups heather tips for 30 min. Let it cool to 100 degrees F and return it to the fermenter to finish out.

Fining agents, what's out there, what are they and how do they work?
There are two kinds of suspended matter that involve themselves in the brewing process: coagulated proteins developed during the boiling of the wort, and yeast that becomes suspended for a period of time during fermentation. Fining agents attract suspended matter by the use of their molecular electrical charge, in much the same way as a magnet works. Positive electric charges attract negative ones and vice-versa. Different types of suspended matter in beer have different electrical charges, and different types of finings have likewise different electrical charges.

Irish Moss-This fining is a seaweed sometimes called carrageen. It is negatively charged and thus attracts the positively charged proteins; the process takes place in the brew pot. One-quarter to one-half teaspoon of powdered Irish moss added during the final 10-15 minutes of boiling will accomplish what is desired. This should be added to every batch.

Yeast naturally settles to the bottom of the fermenter after most of the fermentation is completed. In order for this to happen, proper yeast nutrition is essential. Particularly helpful is the addition of positively charged animal-derived finings. Most beer yeasts are negatively charged so the attraction will be active.

Gelatin-This fining is derived from the hooves of horses and cows, gelatin has a positive charge that will aid in attracting and settling suspended yeast. Dissolved and prepared gelatin is added just before packaging the beer. Prepare the gelatin by adding 1 tablespoon to 1 pint of cold water and gently heat until dissolved. Do not boil the gelatin solution. Add the solution to the beer and allow 1-2 weeks to settle out.

Isinglass-This fining is a gelatinous substance derived from the internal membranes of fish swim bladders. Isinglass is positively charged but its effectiveness in settling yeast will vary with strain of yeast being employed. Follow the instructions that should come with it.

Other fining agents are effective at helping to eliminate chill haze. Chill haze is a phenomenon where your beer will appear clear as a bell at first but will later develop a haze when chilled in the refrigerator. Chill haze is a result of a combining reaction between proteins and tannins. At room temperature it is soluble and remains invisible. At cooler temperatures it is no longer soluble and will precipitate as a haze.

PVP (polyvinylpyrdlidone)/Polyclar-This fining is plastic! It is an insoluble white plastic powder that, like a statically charged balloon clinging to the ceiling, will electrostatically attract tannin molecules as it drifts to the bottom. This process is called adsorption. It is a physical phenomenon. There is no chemical reaction of the plastic with the beer. After polyclar has settled, the beer is drawn off, leaving the sediment behind. Because there are no longer any tannins in the beer, its combination with protein is prevented, hence, no chill haze.

Polyclar should be added to the beer after the yeast has sedimented. The addition of 2 grams (2 teaspoons) of polyclar for 5 gallons of beer should effectively remove tannins within a few hours.

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What is heading liquid?
Heading liquids are extracts of odd roots, barks and other things that will have a "detergent effect" on the beer; bubbles will last longer. Its use in homebrewing is not necessary if sanitary procedures are combined with good ingredients. If your beer is having problems keeping its head, the problem is more likely the glass it is being consumed from. Grease, oils or detergent residues left on glasses will destroy a head in short order. If you decide to use heading liquid follow the instructions on the container. It really does work.
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