| Ingredients
FAQs |
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What is yeast nutrient and
when do I need to use it? |
| Brewer's yeast requires an
adequate supply of vital nutrients and trace minerals in order for
it to carry out a healthy fermentation cycle. The nutrients and
trace minerals the yeast needs are naturally present, in adequate
quantities, in malted barley or manufactured by enzymes during the
malting or mashing process. The addition of extra-prepackaged
yeast nutrient to all malt extract beers is unnecessary. The only
time that a home brewer needs to consider its addition is if
you've used more than 40 percent adjuncts-that is, ingredients
other than malt extract or malted barley. Yeast nutrients are
recommended when making mead and wine. |
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I want to use honey in my brew.
How much should I use? |
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For beer making purposes, lighter honeys such as clover and
alfalfa are considered the best because of the minimal
contribution of strong flavors. But who really cares what the
"norm" is-have fun experiment! Honey is highly fermentable and can
contribute a dry crispness, lighter body and a high alcohol
content without the off-flavors associated with refined white
sugars. In order to maintain real beer character, it should be
used in quantities of less than 30 percent. Quantities greater
than this are not necessarily unpleasant but it does detract from
what might be considered traditional beer flavor. Honey does
lack essential yeast nutrients, yet the addition of nutrients is
not necessary when used in conjunction with malt extract. |
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How do I use fresh fruit to
flavor my brew? |
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Any fruit that tastes good to you can be used to flavor beer. Any fruit that
is used should be pasteurized before its introduction to the fermentation.
Care must be taken when pasteurizing the fruit so that it is NOT boiled
because of the pectin content. If boiled, the pectin will "set" and create
some problems with the beer's clarity among other things.
To pasteurize the fruit you can add it at the end of the boiling wort,
turning the heat off and allowing the fruited wort to steep for 15-20
minutes at a temperature of 150-180 degrees F. A nylon mesh bag can be used
for this purpose.
Fresh fruit should be cleaned, stemmed, and deseeded. It also should have
its skin broken by crushing. Crushing is not necessary with frozen fruit, as
the freezing process has already pierced the skin, allowing the juices to
flow.
The fruit can be left in the wort and fermented in the primary, but should
be removed after initial fermentation. Or it can be added to the secondary
(you can pasteurize it prior to its addition). By waiting until the
secondary fermentation the brewer has more control over how much time the
fruit is in contact with the beer. Moreover it lets the brewer detect
off-flavors before adding fruit. As for the risk of bacteria, the alcohol
produced during primary fermentation mitigates the possibility of
contamination. If only the fruit juice is used, straining is unnecessary. |
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How much fruit do I add to my brew? |
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This is of course relative to how much you want to taste the fruit in your
beer. But here's a list to get you in the ballpark and the amount can be
tailored to suit your own taste. |
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Raspberry and Blackberry (fresh)-Use fresh very ripe berries at less than 1
lb/gal. wort to minimize haze.
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Chili Pepper (fresh)-To stay on the safe side, add chili peppers to the
secondary, let them steep a few days, and then taste the beer. If it needs
more heat, add more and try again.
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Cherry (fresh/frozen)-Use about 2 lbs/gal. wort.
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Blueberry (fresh/frozen)-Use 2 lbs/gal. wort to get a good blueberry flavor.
Use less for subtle flavors.
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Strawberry (fresh)-Use 1.5 to 2 lbs/gal. wort.
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Peach and Apricot (fresh)-Use 1.5-2 lbs/gal. wort. Cut into small pieces.
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Mango (fresh)-Use 1.5 lbs/gal. wort. Chop before using.
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Passion Fruit (fresh)-Use less than 1 lb/gal. wort. Slice before using.
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Pumpkin (fresh)-Use 5-10 lbs/5 gal. batch.
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I heard this unnerving rumor that you can make
pumpkin beer.
How does that work? |
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If using fresh pumpkin, an 8-pound pumpkin (fresh, not canned)
ought to be a good place to start for a five-gallon batch. Deseed
the pumpkin and remove the stringy pulp. Quarter the pumpkin and
bake for 2 hours at 350 degrees F, or until it is tender. Remove
from oven. Cut into 1-inch cubes, put in a nylon bag and add to
the kettle with the spices, bittering hops, and malt extract-boil
for one hour. Remove pumpkin chunks. Cool and pitch yeast. If
using canned pumpkin (yuck!) be sure it doesn't have preservatives
of any kind in it (otherwise it can inhibit yeast fermentation)
and empty the contents of a 2 lb can into a nylon bag. Boil for
one hour with malt extract, hops, and spice. Cool and either
strain wort into primary or siphon off the sediment and into the
primary. Pitch yeast. |
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I want to make a heather ale. How much
do I use? |
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14-18 cups of dried heather tips should be a good ballpark for 5
gallons of wort. If you can get fresh, use 10-14 cups pressed
flowering heather tips. This is an open amount so as to adjust to
one's palate. At boil, add half of the heather tips. Add the
remaining half at the end of the boil. When the gravity hits
1.015, remove 1 gallon of ale in a stockpot, bring it to a simmer
and steep 3 cups heather tips for 30 min. Let it cool to 100
degrees F and return it to the fermenter to finish out. |
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Fining agents, what's out there, what
are they and how do they work? |
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There are two kinds of suspended matter that involve themselves in
the brewing process: coagulated proteins developed during the
boiling of the wort, and yeast that becomes suspended for a period
of time during fermentation. Fining agents attract suspended
matter by the use of their molecular electrical charge, in much
the same way as a magnet works. Positive electric charges attract
negative ones and vice-versa. Different types of suspended matter
in beer have different electrical charges, and different types of
finings have likewise different electrical charges. Irish
Moss-This fining is a seaweed sometimes called carrageen. It is
negatively charged and thus attracts the positively charged
proteins; the process takes place in the brew pot. One-quarter to
one-half teaspoon of powdered Irish moss added during the final
10-15 minutes of boiling will accomplish what is desired. This
should be added to every batch.
Yeast naturally settles to the bottom of the fermenter after
most of the fermentation is completed. In order for this to
happen, proper yeast nutrition is essential. Particularly helpful
is the addition of positively charged animal-derived finings. Most
beer yeasts are negatively charged so the attraction will be
active.
Gelatin-This fining is derived from the hooves of horses and
cows, gelatin has a positive charge that will aid in attracting
and settling suspended yeast. Dissolved and prepared gelatin is
added just before packaging the beer. Prepare the gelatin by
adding 1 tablespoon to 1 pint of cold water and gently heat until
dissolved. Do not boil the gelatin solution. Add the solution to
the beer and allow 1-2 weeks to settle out.
Isinglass-This fining is a gelatinous substance derived from
the internal membranes of fish swim bladders. Isinglass is
positively charged but its effectiveness in settling yeast will
vary with strain of yeast being employed. Follow the instructions
that should come with it.
Other fining agents are effective at helping to eliminate chill
haze. Chill haze is a phenomenon where your beer will appear clear
as a bell at first but will later develop a haze when chilled in
the refrigerator. Chill haze is a result of a combining reaction
between proteins and tannins. At room temperature it is soluble
and remains invisible. At cooler temperatures it is no longer
soluble and will precipitate as a haze.
PVP (polyvinylpyrdlidone)/Polyclar-This fining is plastic! It
is an insoluble white plastic powder that, like a statically
charged balloon clinging to the ceiling, will electrostatically
attract tannin molecules as it drifts to the bottom. This process
is called adsorption. It is a physical phenomenon. There is no
chemical reaction of the plastic with the beer. After polyclar has
settled, the beer is drawn off, leaving the sediment behind.
Because there are no longer any tannins in the beer, its
combination with protein is prevented, hence, no chill haze.
Polyclar should be added to the beer after the yeast has
sedimented. The addition of 2 grams (2 teaspoons) of polyclar for
5 gallons of beer should effectively remove tannins within a few
hours. |
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What is heading liquid? |
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Heading liquids are extracts of odd roots, barks and other things
that will have a "detergent effect" on the beer; bubbles will last
longer. Its use in homebrewing is not necessary if sanitary
procedures are combined with good ingredients. If your beer is
having problems keeping its head, the problem is more likely the
glass it is being consumed from. Grease, oils or detergent
residues left on glasses will destroy a head in short order. If
you decide to use heading liquid follow the instructions on the
container. It really does work. |
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