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Water FAQs
What is hard and soft water?
The basic difference between hard and soft water is that hard water reacts with soap to form solid soap scum and soft water does not form soap scum. The formation of soap scum on your skin is the reason that soap seems easier to rinse from your body.

A general scale would look something like:

0-50 ppm is considered soft water
51-110 ppm is considered medium hard water
111-200 ppm is considered hard water
> 200 ppm is considered very hard water

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What is temporary hardness and what affect does it
have on the brewing process?
Temporary hardness is determined by the measure of bicarbonates. The hardness that bicarbonate ions impart is temporary because it is easily precipitated and is removed when water is boiled or treated with certain acids.

A bicarbonate measure greater than 100 ppm is undesirable because of its contribution to the alkalinity of water, which in turn imparts harsh and bitter flavor to beer. Highly alkaline water creates an imbalance in pH affecting adequate mash conversion and, if used for sparging will extract undesirable harsh grainy flavors.
Permanent hardness is determined by the measure of calcium and magnesium ions, the calcium being more significant. It is that portion of total hardness remaining after the water has been boiled.

Generally, permanent hardness and the calcium ion lower the pH of water. A certain amount of permanent hardness is desirable in the homebrewing of all-grain beers-where enzyme conversion works best at a mash pH of 5.2-5.6.

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What is pH and why is it significant in brewing?

The pH scale describes how acidic or basic (alkaline) a solution is. The scale ranges from 0-14: 7.0 is neutral; less than 7.0 is acidic, becoming more so as it heads toward 0.0; greater than 7.0 is alkaline, becoming more so as it heads toward 14.0.

Its measurement is affected by temperature. The pH of a solution at 150 degrees F will be .35 less than at 65 degrees F. For example if a 150-degree mash had a pH of 5.4 then a reading at 65 degrees F would indicate a pH of 5.75.

The enzymes in the mash responsible for converting starch to sugar work optimally at a pH of 5.2-5.6. Thus it is of the utmost importance to the all-grain brewer that he/she is cognizant of his/her mash pH if optimal efficiency is to be achieved. Likewise hop utilization is also affected by pH level. The best wort pH for optimum hop utilization is between 5.0-5.4.

A measure of pH of the brewing water will not give a measure of what the mash pH will be. The mineral content, particularly calcium, is more influential than the apparent pH of the brewing water.

Your pH can be approximately measured using "pH papers" or "pH meters." Remember that pH papers are accurate only at room temperature so hot water samples must be cooled before the reading is taken. Also many pH meters work this way as well especially the more inexpensive ones.

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How can the pH of the mash be adjusted?

If the pH of the mash is too low (too acidic) the addition of calcium carbonate will work well to raise it. In some cases, especially if you are making a very dark beer, you may have to settle for a mash pH as low as 5.0 but under no circumstance should you add more than 2 teaspoons of calcium carbonate to a five-gallon mash. If the pH of the mash is too high (too basic/alkaline) the addition of calcium in the form of calcium sulfate (gypsum) or calcium chloride is the most acceptable way to lower it. In either event starting with ½ teaspoon additions at a time is recommended. Mix well and recheck the pH after each addition. If this is not available or if you would like to brew with very soft water, then the addition of phosphoric acid can accomplish acidification of the mash. Teaspoon additions can be added incrementally until the desired pH is achieved.

There is, also, a technique called an "acid rest" which can be employed to lower the pH of the mash by varying degrees. The enzymes responsible for this are most active at a resting temperature of 95 degrees F for 15 minutes to a half an hour.

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My water needs adjustment. How can I do it?
It is much easier to add minerals than to remove them. The home brewer who intends to make a variety of adjustments and is using very soft, distilled or reverse osmosis (R/O) water is very fortunate. The adjustments are only a matter of adding one or more mineral salts to achieve the desired qualities.
Various mineral salts can be added to water and we strongly urge the home brewer to acquire at least a basic understanding of water chemistry before adding any chemical to water that will be used for consumption. The following information will give the home brewer some indication of the amounts of mineral salts needed in order to achieve an increase in ion concentrations.

1 teaspoon of gypsum (calcium sulfate) in 5 gallons of water will increase (roughly) the concentration of:
Calcium (Ca²+) ion……………………………..55 ppm
Sulfate [(SO4)² -] ion…………………………135 ppm

1 teaspoon of pure table salt (sodium chloride) in 5 gallons of water will increase (roughly) the concentration of:
Sodium (Na +) ion…………………………….135 ppm
Chloride (Cl -) ion………………………………209 ppm

1 teaspoon of Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) in 5 gallons of water will increase (roughly) the concentration of:
Magnesium (Mg ²+) ion……………………….52 ppm
Sulfate [(SO4)²-] ion………………………….207 ppm

1 teaspoon of Calcium Chloride flakes in 5 gallons of water will increase (roughly) the concentration of:
Calcium (Ca²+) ion……………………………..95 ppm
Chloride [2(Cl)²-] ion…………………………..84 ppm
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Where can I get information about my tap or well water?
Contact your local town, city or county water board. In most cases they will furnish you with free information about the contents of your water. If you have well water you will need to have a private analysis done on your well. You can check the yellow pages for laboratories that provide this service. Or if the cost is restrictive then sometimes a local university will perform the analysis for free.
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