Midwest Supplies

Question: The yeast feel warm, are they dead?
  Answer: Yeast are surprisingly tough and it takes quite spike in temperatures to really effectively kill them. You may experience a lag time longer than expected due to cellular damage, but likely everything will be fine as they are still able to propagate and spawn fresh and viable cells. Preparing a yeast starter is an excellent way to ensure yeast health and viability....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I use gelatin finings?
  Answer: Positively charged fining agent for wine and beer. The most powerful of the organic finings. Using more than the recommended amount will remove too much of the color and flavor compounds from wine and some of the body from the beer. Gelatin can be used to take out phenols and tannins in red wines. Use 1 tsp. of gelatin finings per 5 gallons of wine. First, soak the gelatin in cold water for 1 hour. Then boil it to dissolve before adding to your wine. Rack your wine within 2-3 weeks. Store gelatin finings in a cool and dry location. This fining is derived from the hooves of horses and cows, gelatin has a positive charge that will aid in attracting and settling suspended yeast. Dissolved and prepared gelatin is added just before bottling the beer. Prepare the gelatin by adding 1 tablespoon to 1 pint of cold water and gently heat until dissolved. Do not boil the gelatin solution. Add the solution to the beer and allow 1 - 2 weeks to settle out before bottling your beer....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What are my liquid yeast size options?
  Answer: Midwest Homebrewing Supplies has various yeast options for our homebrew kits. -1.75 oz. (000W) Wyeast Propagator packs are pure strains of liquid beer yeast in self contained foil packs. Upgrading to this yeast costs an additional $3.00. They require activation 24-48 hours before brewing. This is easily done by holding the yeast pack in your hand and hitting it with your other hand. This ruptures the yeast culture inside the pack. The pack will expand and will then be ready to be added to a yeast starter. Wait 24 hours after creating the yeast starter to add the slurry to the wort. -150 mls (approx. 6 oz) (000ACT) Wyeast Activator packs are pure yeast in a UV light protected tube. Upgrading to this yeast costs an additional $4.00. These Activators are ready to use right out of the refrigerator. Wyeast Activators (000ACT) are available for an additional $4.00. -White Labs Yeast vials (000WL) are ready to use right out of the refrigerator. No more waiting for incubation. White Lab vials (000WL) are available for an additional $5.00. Each vial is equivalent in cell count to a pint starter, or 75-150 billion cells, containing 8 times as much yeast as a small Wyeast pack....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I prevent hop infestation?
  Answer: Keep the vines well fed and watered and evenly spaced. Be sure to keep the area free of weeds. Avoid watering the plants late in the day, fungal and mildew growth needs moisture and darkness. Early watering allows the vines to dry off for the night. Powdery mildew will appear beneath the leaves - Trim off infested parts and dispose of in the trash, away from the vines (do not put in a compost pile)....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do the various clarifying agents work? What is the best way to achieve clarity in my beer?
  Answer: One of the most consistent ways to achieve clarity is by using Irish moss in the boil. Many brewers do this with every batch. Irish moss is a seaweed derived fining that accelerates protein coagulation during the end of the boil which helps prevent chill haze.This is called hot break. You simply put a teaspoon in during the last 15 minutes of the boil. Super Irish Moss is a proprietary blend of negatively charged, red seaweed based, Kapa and Lambda carrageenans. It is designed to attract the positively charged haze-forming proteins together in the brew kettle and primary fermenter, and to then settle out. Whirlfloc tablets are Irish moss in tablet form, negating the need to measure. Using a wort chiller also aids in clarifying, as it cools rapidly, giving you a good cold break, which helps to remove additional material from the solution. Try to leave as much break material as possible in the kettle, so that you will have only minimal amounts present in your fermenter. You may also use fining agents, such as gelatin finings or Polyclar, after primary fermentation is complete. These products will remove the compounds that cause haze, but they may pull out some of the yeast as well. This may result in lower carbonation levels, so Midwest suggests that you add some yeast before bottling. A dry yeast will work fine for this, as most of the flavor imparted by the yeast takes place during primary fermentation....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Quick directions for brewing 5 gallons of beer with malt extract, specialty grains, hops, yeast, and priming sugar.
  Answer: Activate yeast/ warm up yeast to room temperature Steep the grains at 152 °F Add malt Bring to boil and add hops Cool wort to below 80 °F Pitch yeast Ferment Bottle...Click to Read full Answer


Question: Can I use frozen concentrate to make wine?
  Answer: You can make wine using frozen concentrate if you want. This is particularly handy in the harsh winter months, or when a fruit is out of season. Frozen concentrate works because the makers of the concentrate rarely use preservatives because the juice is frozen. Anything with a fermentable sugar can be used to make wine. Frozen concentrate is also very useful in the situation that you need to top off some of your fruit wine. Let’s say you’ve made an apple wine from fresh fruit in late October, and now it is mid-November and you’ve just added metabisulphite to your wine. You notice that you have a ½ gallon of head space in your fermenter, which is not good. Seeing apples are out of season, you need something to top off the wine with. Instead of using water, make up some frozen apple juice. Your wine gets to remain at full flavor, and you don’t run the risk of oxidizing, or getting a bacteria, in your wine....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is the difference between hop pellets, plugs, whole, and extract?
  Answer: Hop pellets are highly processed hops consisting of finely powdered hop cones compressed into pea-sized tablets used in both home and commercial brewing. Standardized pellets are made from blends of hops to obtain a specific and consistent alpha acid level. Hop plugs are whole flowers that have been dried and compressed into a plug. They are reported to impart a better aroma and flavor than the pellet hops, but you will have to decide that one for yourself. Whole hops are the whole flower dried and uncompressed. Whole hops also have less surface area exposure to wort than pellets and are less efficient for bittering, i.e. more of it is required to impart an equal amount of bitterness compared to pellets or extract. Hop extracts are the liquid bittering essences of hops and are used for convenience in the brewing industry. All hop extracts must be used sparingly and care must be taken that they are well mixed to ensure that they are dissolved....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What type of soil is ideal for hop rhizomes?
  Answer: Rhizomes are not terribly picky. A sandy soil is a bit more ideal for proper drainage, but a mix of sand and clay soil will work just fine. Be sure there is adequate drainage as standing water will rot the roots. The pH of the soil should be between 5.5 and 8.0 (our organic gardening store sells test kits: www.midwesthydroponics.com)...Click to Read full Answer


Question: What causes hydrogen sulfide (HS2) contamination (rotten egg smell)?
  Answer: There are many things that can cause hydrogen sulfide contamination, all are preventable: • Too much sulfites, usually the result of grapes being dusted with too much sulfur during the growing season. • Lack of proper nutrients (nitrogen, yeast hulls) during fermentation. • Yeast combining with various forms of sulfur. • Bacterial contamination due to poor sanitation techniques. That being said, here are the things you can do to prevent H2S contamination: • Add proper amounts of sulfites to wine. • If making wine from scratch (not from a kit), add a proper amount of yeast nutrient (#8334) prior to pitching yeast. • Use proper yeast for the wine you’re making, and make sure it has not passed the expiration date or gotten too hot in storage. • Maintain sanitary conditions for your equipment and must (especially prior to pitching yeast)....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How much honey should I add to the boil? At what point do I add the honey?
  Answer: Adding 1 to 2 pounds of honey to your brew will add alcohol and flavor. As for when to add the honey, boil 30 minutes for a hint of sweetness, or for 5 to 10 minutes for more residual sweetness. It just depends on how noticeable you want to make the honey....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Why do you have so many kits?
  Answer: So that you can brew and drink the beer that you love best!!! Each beer drinker has their own favorite flavors, so we carry 100+ beer kits covering light, amber, and dark ales and lagers. We have wheat beers, mead's and melomel's, Belgian ales, and clone kits for when you want to brew your favorite commercial beer. Also, for those who have increased the complexity of their brewing system, we carry a selection of partial-mash and all-grain kits. Each 5-gallon kit comes with all of the ingredients and extra brewing supplies you will need to get that batch going on brew day. This includes the malt, specialty grains, hops, priming sugar, grain bag, any extra sugars or additives required, and instructions to guide you through. Maybe we don’t have a kit to satisfy your taste buds, or you have come up with a kit that wows all of your friends. Browse our ingredients section to order the supplies you need!...Click to Read full Answer


Question: Can I use apple cider from the supermarket to make hard or sweet cider?
  Answer: No. Cider purchased at the super market will almost always contain preservatives and will not allow the juice to start fermenting. State and local laws require producers to treat apples with anti bacterial sprays prior to pressing and many require that stabilizers be added prior to sale. Go to your local apple orchard and ask them for wine or hard cider grade juice. Arrange to pick up your cider the day you will start to make it. The fresher the better! You can also use frozen apple concentrate if you want. Just make sure to check the label for any preservatives. A good rule of thumb is is you see anything listed after apples in the ingredients, the juice won't work for making cider....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What are Clone Kits?
  Answer: Clone kits are replicas of commercial beers available throughout the country. Midwest Supplies offers several different types of clone kits that are designed to taste just like their commercial brothers. They are a good way to make a beer that you are familiar with so you feel comfortable with what you are making. Or, make one to see how you compare with the large commercial brewers out there. The internet is a great resource for recipes. Just do a quick internet search for your favorite beer, type in recipe after it, and you should pull up several recipes for you to use. Most of the time it isn’t that a person wants a clone of a beer, but rather something in that style of beer. As long as you know the style, we probably have a kit that you would like. For example, let’s say you really like “Boulevard Wheat” an unfiltered, bottle conditioned wheat beer. We do not have a clone of that beer, but try our Hanks Hefeweisen kit instead. You might find you like our kit better, or you can always alter the beer closer to your liking. Midwest Supplies offers a complete selection of whatever you need to make a beer as well as our kits. The great thing with this hobby is that you can make any beer that you can imagine. Experimenting with the grains or hops will change the overall flavor of the beer. We try to have the largest selection of kits available, but sometimes you want something different. Don’t be afraid to try something new. A great resource for other recipes is our forum website at www.brew-wineforum.com. We currently have over 500 recipes on there from our customers. Who knows? Maybe we’ll be making one of your beers a clone someday....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What are the different types of hops?
  Answer: Hop pellets are highly processed hops consisting of finely powdered hop cones compressed into pea-sized tablets used in both home and commercial brewing. Standardized pellets are made from blends of hops to obtain a specific and consistent alpha acid level. Hop plugs are whole flowers that have been dried and compressed into a plug. They are reported to impart a better aroma and flavor than the pellet hops but you will have to decide that one for yourself. Whole hops are the whole flower dried and uncompressed. Whole hops also have less surface area exposure to wort than pellets and are less efficient for bittering, i.e. more of it is required to impart an equal amount of bitterness compared to pellets or extract. Hop extracts are the liquid bittering essences of hops and are used for convenience in the brewing industry. All hop extracts must be used sparingly and care must be taken that they are well mixed to ensure that they are dissolved....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What does laagering a beer involve?
  Answer: Let’s start by saying that you need to have a controlled temperature throughout the laagering process. Most brewers will use a refrigerator with an outside temperature control unit. The thermostat works in opposite of the refrigerator’s thermostat so that your temperatures do not end up too cold. The maximum temperature of most refrigerators is 40 °F. Before the brewing process has begun it is a good idea to prepare your fermentation environment a few days in advance to allow it a chance to stabilize. If you are intending to ferment your lager at a temperature of 48 °F, dial that temperature in on your thermostat a couple days before you begin to allow your refrigerator a chance to stabilize at this temperature....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What options do I have to make my own liquor?
  Answer: When  it  comes  to  making  liquor  at  home,  Midwest  offers  two  options.  One  is  making  a  Classic  Liquors  Kit.  The  second  is  using a Liquor Quik essence. Let’s tell you the differences between the two.  Liquor  Quik  essences  can  be  the  most  basic  way  to  make  your  own  liquor  at  home.  All  you  have  to  do  is  add  a  bottle of essence to a bottle of neutral spirit, like vodka, and some sugar. It is an instant result with very little effort. For those that want to make a liquor flavored cake without the liquor, Liquor Quik is very good for that as well.  If  you  want  to  make  your  own  base  alcohol,  we  recommend  using  Super  Yeast  Xpress  by  Liquor  Quik.  This  is  a  fast fermenting  yeast  that  is  capable  of  achieving  20-25%  alcohol.  Just  follow  the  directions  on  the  back  of  the  package  for  how much sugar to use.    For  those  that  want  to  make  the  liquor  from  start  to  finish,  try  out  a  Classic  Liquors  kit.  These  kits  come with almost everything you need to make 1 gallon of liquor at a time. You only need to provide table sugar, and water, to make these kits. The rest is right in the box. Because  you  are  making,  and  clearing,  the  alcohol  yourself,  these  kits  take  about  3 - 5  weeks  to  be  done.  You  even  get  to  clear  the  base  alcohol  by  using  charcoal.  Just  like  the  big  boys  do.  These  kits  do  have  several  steps,  but  they  are  easy enough to do. Just follow the directions that come in the box.    ...Click to Read full Answer


Question: What kinds of recipe kits does Midwest sell?
  Answer: Midwest Homebrewing Supplies offers a large selection of recipe kits. Our kits cover ale, lager, wheat and specialty hybrid styles. Extract Recipe Kits: Our largest selection of recipe kits, kits come with all ingredients needed to make a 5 gallon batch of beer with liquid malt extract (LME). 20 Minute Boil Kits: Our 20 Minute Boil Kits are popular with many of our in store customers. These kits have no grains and require only 20 minutes of boiling. With the use of a wort chiller, you can have your beer in the fermenter and be cleaned up in less than an hour. These kits deliver consistent results. Clone Kits: Clone kits are replicas of commercial beers available throughout the country. Midwest Supplies offers several different types of clone kits that are designed to taste just like their commercial brothers. They are a good way to make a beer that you are familiar with so you feel comfortable with what you are making. Or, make one to see how you compare with the large commercial brewers out there. Partial Mash Kits: Partial mash is a recipe utilizing half extract and half all-grain brewing techniques. All homebrewing recipe kits from Midwest include: Briess malt extract (unless otherwise noted), specialty grains, imported and domestic hops, fresh yeast, sugar, priming sugar, grain bag and complete easy to follow instructions. They are designed to brew 5 gallon batches. Call our new toll free number to order your kit today. 1 (888) 449-BREW or 1 (952) 925-9854. Midwest accepts all major credit cards....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I prepare a yeast starter? What are the benefits?
  Answer: A yeast starter is very easy to make and provides many benefits if used every time you brew. Generally, the more yeast you can pitch into your wort, the better. The more cells you throw at all that fermentable sugar, the shorter your lag time (time before fermentation begins) will be. It will also be much more likely that your beer will ferment to dryness (99% of the fermentable sugar is consumed) with a yeast starter. Beers made with a yeast starter rarely, if ever, get stuck or start slow. Preparing a yeast starter is easy with our yeast starter kit (#YS7842). You should prepare your yeast starter about 24 hours before you are going to pitching it....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What wine styles benefit from oaking?
  Answer: Several types of wine lend themselves well to oaking, most notably the Cabernet's, Chardonnay's, Merlot's, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Chianti, Burgundy, Fume Blanc, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, Shiraz, and Pinot Blanc, just to name a few. Generally speaking, German wines are not usually oaked. Depending upon the type of oak used, and the type of wine that is being oaked, a wide variety of desirable complexity can be achieved. In general, the scents of oak are non-fruit aromatics in nature. Oak can add flavors ranging from vanilla and coconut, to aromatic spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. It can even add an earthy or lightly organic tone to wine....Click to Read full Answer


Question: I don’t want to invest in expensive equipment, is there anything cheaper to make a small batch of fruit wine?
  Answer: You’ve got some fruit lying around, but you’ve never tried to make wine before and you aren’t sure if making wine is for you. This is something that we hear all the time at Midwest, and there are some options that are very inexpensive to give fruit winemaking a try. Let us tell you now that there is no cheap way to go on the fermentation equipment. What we are talking about here is the crushing and pressing equipment that can be very expensive to buy. Don’t go cheap on the fermentation equipment as you will live to regret it. Crushers A crusher is a very handy item to have when making larger amounts of wine. They make life so much easier, but they are not at all necessary to make wine. If you have several people willing to roll up their sleeves, get dirty, and sweat a bit, then you can make your own crusher. Presses There really isn’t a cheap replacement for a press, but there is a way to squeeze the juice out of the fruit without having to invest in one. Take a nylon straining bag, or even a clean pillow case will work, fill the bag ½ way full with fruit, and wring out the bag like you would a wet towel. Hint: Do not use a fruit juicer to extract the fruit. We’ve heard so many people burn up the motor that we’ve lost count. Feet good, fruit juicer bad....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Liquid malt vs. dried malt, What is the difference? Do I use the same amount?
  Answer: There isn’t a major difference between liquid and dry malt except for the amount of water that is left in the end product. Because the two types of malt are different in water content, you cannot interchange the two in a recipe. You can however, use a simple formula for determining the conversion from one to the other. We cover the differences between the two and the conversion ratios for you....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Information on Yeast Upgrades: What's the difference between dry and liquid yeast?
  Answer: The advantages of dried beer yeast are that it is simple to use, usually very active and foolproof. One can significantly improve the performance of dried yeasts (and consequently the flavor of your beer) by properly re-hydrating it. Do this by adding the dried yeast to a sanitized glass jar filled with 1-1.5 cups of 90-100 °F tap water. Cover with clean foil and let rehydrate for 15-30 minutes, then bring the temperature of the re-hydrated yeast close to that of the wort and pitch. One of the premier advantages of liquid yeast is the selection one encounters. Nowadays and especially to the novice, there is an overwhelming selection to choose from. Many of the liquid strains of yeast have been obtained from breweries in brewing centers from around the world and therefore afford the home brewer the greatest possible chance to replicate the beers styles, which made these cities famous. Yeast is arguably the most important ingredient in beer and indeed certain styles of beer cannot even be approximated without the use of the correct yeast strain....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is the ideal storing temperature for my ales and lagers?
  Answer: Your main concerns here are heat and sunlight—both bad for your brew. Heat can cause oxidation, which results in a stale, cardboard-like taste. If your house does not have air conditioning, we suggest storing your beer on the floor of your basement during the summer months, or in the refrigerator. Most people keep their house at around 68 °F, which is fine for storing your beer. Just keep it out of direct sunlight. You may also store your brew in the refrigerator, if you have the space, ideally between 34 and 40 °F. Lagers, on the other hand, should always be refrigerated if possible. For the first two weeks after bottling, they should be kept at the same temperature you had it at for primary fermentation, so that the carbonation can take place. After that, the colder the better, so long as its above freezing. It's a good idea to keep your beer at constant storage temperature, so as not to take your beer through a roller coaster ride of extreme temperatures. As a happy medium, 50-55 °F is a good long-term storage temperature range for your ales....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Why Blend Wines?
  Answer: There are several reasons a home winemaker might want to utilize blends. A good example is to blend a wine that is too dry with one that is too sweet to create a more balanced wine. In this instance, the two wines should be similarly based, both Merlot's, for example. You may also want to blend wines to create a new flavor profile, integrating complexities from varying bases. Blending grape and non-grape wines can yield some interesting and delicious results. It is the ultimate way of creating a new flavor profile. In most cases, the grape wine will predominate, both because it brings body to the blend and because fruit flavors seem to blend better with grape than the other way around. Another way of saying this is that grape wines tend to absorb a fruity character from non-grape wines, but non-grape wines tend to lose their fruitiness to grape wines. With a little experimentation and patience, blending is easy to do....Click to Read full Answer


Question: When should I harvest the hops and then what do I do with them?
  Answer: Hops are usually ready to pick by late August or early September depending on where you live. Select a random cone and cut it vertically. A rip cone will have yellow dust (lupulin) in the center and it should be pungently hoppy. Another way to tell is to snap a hop cone in half. If it breaks like a carrot would, you are ready to harvest. If it is still very spongy, then you need to wait. Only pick the cones that look similar to the one you tested because not all of the cones will be ready at the same time. When you have enough cones, or you just want to move on, you need to dry the hops. A food dehydrator works well for this, but read your instructions first. You don’t want to over dry or burn your hops. It usually takes about 9?12 hours for most hops to dry. It usually takes about 9?12 hours for most hops to dry. A cheap alternative for those that don’t have a food dehydrator is to use a window screen. Place a screen on anything that can allow air to flow above and below the screen. Place the screen in the sun, and add your hops on top of the screen. The air and the heat from the sun will dry out the hops for you. This process can take several days, so make sure to bring the hops inside if you expect rain....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Midwest Yeast Shipping Info:
  Answer: Over the summer months we ship yeast all over the country to varying climates and receive few problems reported. That being said the most common issues with shipping yeast is a loss in viability which translates into increased lag periods before fermentation begins....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Where should I plant a Rhizome?
  Answer: You'll want to survey your growing area and check for a few basic things. First be aware of your vertical surroundings. Do not grow them up electrical poles. Allow more than 10' of vertical growth to ensure a well spaced vine. Hop vines can grow up to 25 ft. in a single season! Less than 10' may result in bunched shoots that make them susceptible to mildew. Plant like varieties together and space these 3' apart. Space out unlike varieties to at least 5' apart. Crowded vines are less productive and susceptible to infestation and mildew. No, hops should not be grown inside. Their roots need too much room to spread out, and a container is just not large enough to support the growth. These are not small plants when they grow. A lot of people are not familiar with what hops look like in a field, but most people know what grape vines look like. Hops grow the same way that grape vines grow. They get big, they take up space, and they need a lot of height....Click to Read full Answer


Question: My beers taste the same even though they are different styles?
  Answer: So, you’ve got a few beers under your belt, but you are noticing a similar flavor between all of them. This is a good thing if you’ve been making the same beer every time. But, if you have made 6 different beers and there is a similar flavor in all of them, then take a look at the yeast you are using. If you are in the habit of using dry yeast in all of your beers, then that is your problem. In the more recent years, dry yeast has started to come out with some different strains, but for the most part, the yeast has been the same type. An ale yeast strain is the same, sometimes even between different companies. Dry yeast is great for the fact that it shows the start of fermentation faster than liquid. Liquid yeast comes in many different varieties, and every strain of yeast will produce a different flavor profile. Some will make the beer dry, some malty, some buttery, and so on. Yeast plays a huge role in how your beer turns out. We like to say that a 1/3 of your flavor comes from the grains/malt, 1/3 comes from hops, and the final 1/3 comes from the yeast. Sure, there are some other things that can influence flavor, but these are your big three. Don’t take yeast for granted as a major flavor enhancer to your beer. You can make the same beer with 3 different yeasts, and get 3 totally different beers. If you are having problems with a consistent flavor in all of your beers, switch to liquid yeast. Let’s face it, commercial breweries rarely, if at all, use dry yeast because it is not as versatile as liquid yeast. Plus, good luck finding a dry, true Trappist ale yeast. Liquid yeast can get so specific to a style of beer that it actually comes from the town a beer is made in. We have strains available that are as specific as the beer itself. Pilsner Urquell liquid yeast is available, for example. If you are not using dry yeast, then take a look at what strain of liquid yeast you are using. Maybe the kits you are making are all calling for American/ Californian Ale yeast. If you are using the same strain every time, then you are going to get the same results as using dry yeast all the time. Try switching it up a little. Instead of using American Ale, try American Ale II. There will be a major flavor difference between the two. Have fun, and experiment with the different strains of yeast available to the home brewer today. It wasn’t long ago that the only yeasts available to home brewers were dry or American Ale liquid. By the way, don’t use bread yeast for your beers. They aren’t designed for beer, and can leave you with a less then pleasurable drinking experience....Click to Read full Answer


Question: My wine has no fermentation after 72 hours...
  Answer: You’ve given the yeast a chance to start, but yet you still see nothing. At this point, this isn’t a cause for concern because there are many things that can help get the fermentation process started. Some options are very simple, while others can take some time. It is best to follow these ideas in the order that they are written here so that you do not cause your wine problems by skipping steps. Troubleshooting • Move the wine to a warmer area to see if the yeast doesn’t kick in. Give it 24 hours before you move on to the next step. • Create a yeast starter. To do this you need a packet of yeast, some juice from the fermenter, table sugar, and a glass. Make sure that the glass is sanitized. Add 16 oz. of the juice (2 cups), 1 tablespoon of table sugar, and the yeast to your glass. In roughly 15 minutes to an hour you should notice foam forming on top of the glass. This lets you know that the yeast is active and ready to go. Just pour the active yeast into your fermenter. DO NOT stir the yeast in. • If all else fails you can do what we refer to as a reverse starter. How this works is you start with a normal yeast starter, like the directions above. But instead of pouring the yeast starter into the fermenter, you add a little bit of the juice, or must, to the starter instead. So, you essentially need another fermenter to be able to do this....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How much fruit extract flavoring should I use in my beer?
  Answer: Strawberry/Kiwi: 0.7% (4-5 oz/5 gal) Blueberry: 0.3% (2 oz/5 gal) Apricot: 1.0% (6-7 oz/5 gal) Apple: 0.3% (2 oz/5 gal or to taste) Cherry: 0.5% (3-4 oz/5 gal) Blackberry: 0.7% (4-5 oz/5 gal) Raspberry: 1.0% (4-5 oz/5 gal) Peach: 0.8% (4-5 oz/5 gal) Cranberry: 0.5% (3-4oz/5 gal)...Click to Read full Answer


Question: Are there any safety concerns to growing hops?
  Answer: Keep your pets away from the growing hops - dogs especially. Hops are poisonous to dogs if ingested and veterinary assistance should be sought should this occur....Click to Read full Answer


Question: I'm out of priming sugar, what else can I use?
  Answer: If you can’t wait until your next shipment from Midwest, or you don’t have a brew shop near you there are many options for carbonating you beer with something else than priming sugar. Just about anything that has sugar  in it could be used, but here are a few examples and the amounts that you need:    Using honey- 1 cup for bottling and <½ cup for kegging.   Using maple syrup- 1¼ cup for bottling and 5/8 cup for kegging.  Using molasses- 1 cup for bottling and <½ cup for kegging.  Using brown sugar 2/3 cup for bottling and <1/3 cup for kegging.  Using cane sugar (table sugar)- 1 cup for bottling and <1/3 cup for kegging.  It is a good idea to mix these with a little water and boil before adding to your bottling bucket. That way everything breaks down and the yeast has an easier time using the sugars. Keep in mind that these different  sugars will also leave a different flavor in your beer. The sugar that you use can be just one more thing to  make your beer different then anything else out there. Maybe try brown sugar with a brown or a stout? That little extra  sweetness can make a good beer even better. ...Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is Polyclar and how do I use it?
  Answer: Polyclar is a stabilizing additive for wine or beer which removes polyphenolic compounds and oxidized melanoidins. This means that when used in beer it will remove haze-causing husk tannins and oxidized compounds that contribute to off flavors. When used in a finished wine it can help to remove haze-causing proteins. More importantly, it can remove oxidized flavor and aroma compounds, making the wine taste fresher...Click to Read full Answer


Question: What type of conditions do Rhizomes like?
  Answer: A well placed rhizome plant can provide you with more hops then you can ever imagine. If you place it in the wrong area you will end up with very little production and the plant may even die. Let’s tell you about what the ideal conditions are for planting your hops. • First of all, hops like sun. • The soil you want is a sandy, dirt mix. You do not want a very compact soil for the rhizome to start off in. • Hops do not like a lot of water, so be careful that you pay attention to things like roof lines, gutters, or down spouts when planting a rhizome. Think about if it rains will water runoff be an issue. • Hops can handle hot temperatures very well. We’ve noticed that it doesn’t really matter the variety of hops, but if you have a long hot, dry spell, make sure the plant is getting enough water. • All you have to do is go out a water the plant every few days or so. Too much water will rot the root. • Try to water the plant in the morning to prevent mildew forming on your plant....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is diacetyl?
  Answer: Diacetyl. This is a word a lot of people don’t even know how to pronounce, but most of us know the flavor of the chemical it represents. Two common pronunciations are die-ASS-a-teel and DIE-a-see-till. This chemical gives butter its characteristic flavor, and it also can be found in beer. Most people are familiar with beers that have a buttery flavor, as it is common in beers such as Bass Ale, but don’t worry if you are uncertain of diacetyl’s nature. It is easy to learn how to discern its aroma and flavor in beer. There are three ways that lead to the creation of diacetyl: 1. The first is through normal yeast metabolism. Brewer’s yeast form a precursor called alpha acetolactate (AAL), which is tasteless. This compound is converted to diacetyl as the beer ages. The reaction that changes AAL to diacetyl is accelerated by high temperature. At cool temperatures it will still occur, but more slowly. 2. Diacetyl is also formed by mutant yeast. Brewer’s yeast that has lost its ability to properly utilize oxygen is called respiratory mutants, or petite mutants (because they form abnormally small colonies on laboratory plates). These yeast are also unable to properly metabolize diacetyl, thus leaving it in the beer. 3. Bacteria called pediococcus can also form high levels of diacetyl in beer. While this bug cannot hurt humans, it can make beer sour as well as buttery. Tartness is desirable in Lambic beers, but it is most unwelcome in most other beer styles. The vast majority of brewers do their best to avoid pediococcus!...Click to Read full Answer


Question: Is there an advantage to priming with Dried Malt Extract (DME) instead of corn sugar?
  Answer: In our opinion, there is no advantage to priming with DME. It takes longer to ferment out than sugar, it adds no flavor to the beer, and since you don’t know the degree of fermentability of the DME, you can’t precisely control the carbonation level of your beer. Sugar adds no taste and is reliable. The same ratio will get you the same level of carbonation with high consistency. There is a persistent myth that DME gives you “finer” bubbles, but that's due to the fact that since it takes longer than sugar to ferment out, there’s more time for the CO2 to go into solution....Click to Read full Answer


Question: The Wyeast Activator Pack is activated and swollen
  Answer: Place the yeast in the fridge to get them dormant again then proceed as normal. Ideally, do a yeast starter 1-3 days before target brew date. The sooner you can brew with it the better. If none of these is an option for you then contact us and we can proceed from there. If the yeast feel warm, are they dead? Yeast are surprisingly tough and it takes quite a spike in temperatures to really effectively kill them. You may experience a lag time longer than expected due to cellular damage, but likely everything will be fine as they are still able to propagate and spawn fresh and viable cells. Preparing a yeast starter is an excellent way to ensure yeast health and viability....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What head space do I need in my secondary when making wine?
  Answer: You’ve got your wine transferred and are ready to add the metabisulphite to your wine. Head space becomes important after you have added the metabisulphite because you are killing the yeast. Up until now, your wine has been fermenting and that creates a CO2 layer over the wine. This CO2 layer protects the wine from oxidizing, and can help prevent bacteria from floating into the wine. CO2 isn’t much help from protecting the wine from bacteria, but it does help a little. Once you add metabisulphite the yeast starts to be killed off and you lose your CO2 layer. Now your wine is unprotected from oxidizing. You do want a small amount of air to contact the wine because this is what is going to help age the wine. A small amount of air will allow the wine to slowly oxidize, but it will also help the alcohol to mellow and the flavors to blend better. Wine makers get in trouble because they leave a large air gap during this stage, and all of a sudden they end up with a prune juice tasting wine. Not very appealing for most people....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is the best temperature to ferment my wine?
  Answer: Most Wine ingredient kit instructions tell you to ferment your wine within a specific temperature range. Midwest recommends 65 °F to 75 °F. Yeast thrives at these temperatures, and also likes to be kept at the same temperature until its done doing its work. If the fermentation area is too cool, the wine will ferment very slowly. This will lead to an excess of CO2 gas in the wine, and it may not be ready to stabilize and fine in the expected time frame. Additionally, the fining agents included with Winexpert kits don’t work well at temperatures outside of the 65 °F to 75 °F range. Below 64 °F your wine kit may not clear at all! Since most people keep their house at around 68 °F, just leaving your fermenter at room temperature should work out great....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I use isinglass?
  Answer: This fining is a gelatinous substance derived from the internal membranes of fish swim bladders. Isinglass is positively charged but its effectiveness in settling yeast will vary with the strain of yeast being employed. Follow the instructions that will come with it. Positively charged fining agent. Liquid isinglass is good for clearing up white wines, particularly those that have been aged with oak. Stir 1 fluid oz into 6 gallons of wine and allow 2-3 days to clear. Store tightly sealed in a cool place....Click to Read full Answer


Question: My beer abruptly stopped fermenting
  Answer: Stuck fermentation you say? More often than not, the most turbulent stage of fermentation has passed and while it appears to have stopped, in reality it is probably still quietly, inconspicuously going about its business and finishing up. Wait a few days from when you think it had "stopped" and take a hydrometer reading before panicking....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I prime my beer using other sugars?
  Answer: Using honey-1 cup for bottling and <½ cup for kegging. Using maple syrup-1¼ cup for bottling and 5/8 cup for kegging. Using molasses-1 cup for bottling and <½ cup for kegging. Using brown sugar-2/3 cup for bottling and <1/3 cup for kegging. Using cane sugar-2/3 cup for bottling and <1/3 cup for kegging....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What ratio would I use for 5 gallon glass carboys to get good oaking results? I usually bulk age both chardonnays and reds for 10-12 months.
  Answer: For new barrel extraction rates, the recommended ratio is 2 - 2.5 oz Oak Cubes for use in a 5 gallon carboy . We always recommend that you start with the lighter ratio for first time use, as you can always add more oak after 8 weeks. We recommend a minimum contact time of 8 weeks to allow for the full integration of the oak flavors. Also, as you will be aging the wine on the Oak Cubes for a year or so, you may even want to bring the ratio down a little lighter....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Is my wine ready to bottle?
  Answer: If your wine is clear, stable, and free of CO2, it's ready. Clear means free of particles that could later fall out of suspension and leave a deposit in the bottles. Stable means finished fermenting and with enough sulfites (SO2) present to prevent oxidation and spoiling. Free of CO2 means that although the fermentation may be finished, a wine can still be saturated with carbon dioxide. If it is, it will go into the bottles with the fizziness intact, and depending on the conditions, could expand and push the corks out (or worse, break the bottles), or provide you with the dubious pleasure of drinking a sparkling wine that’s supposed to be still (sparkling Merlot , anyone?). To get rid of CO2, stir your wine....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How are specialty grains utilized?
  Answer: For the extract brewer they will be used in proportions generally not exceeding a pound or two for a five-gallon batch. The grains are first crushed in a mill from your local homebrew supply shop or, if done at home, with a rolling pin or mill if you have acquired one. The idea is not to over crush the grains. You want to crack open the husks of the grain only. If the grain is over milled, the pulverized husk can find its way into the boiling liquid and impart astringent or grainy flavors to the finished product. If properly milled, with the husks more or less in tact, they will help to form a natural filter bed-especially important if all-grain brewing is employed....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is the correct acid level for wines? How do I adjust the acid level up or down?
  Answer: The following are guidelines for the desired acid levels in various types of wines. Individual tastes may vary, so make adjustments according to your own palate: Dry White Wine—0.65 % - 0.75 % Sweet White Wine—0.70 % - 0.85 % Dry Red Wine—0.60 % - 0.70 % Sweet Red Wine—0.65 % - 0.80 % These figures represent total acidity as a percentage by volume, known as the titratable acidity, or T.A. for short. You may test the acidity of your wine using the Acid Testing Kit (#8220) or a pH meter (# 6436)....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is a protein rest? When do I need to use it?
  Answer: A protein rest is done before a saccharification rest (resting your mash in the 148-158 °F range for ~60-90 minutes) by bringing your mash to 122-131 °F for ~20 minutes. Most malts do not require the use of a protein rest, as they have been well modified (a high degree of of breakdown during malting of the protein-starch matrix in the malted grain). Under-modified barley malt, or grists with a large percent (more than 25%) of wheat, oatmeal, unmalted grain, flaked barley, or rye, will benefit from a protein rest. It will break down proteins and make the starches more accessible for conversion as well as making for a more effective runoff by breaking the large, gelatinous proteins into smaller chains....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How long will it take for my ale to ferment?
  Answer: There are several variables that will impact rate of fermentation, such as quantity and health of yeast pitched, temperature, the specific gravity, and proper oxygenation/aeration of cooled wort. However, you can expect most ale fermentations to be complete within two weeks. But there can be a lot of variance. It's quite possible that fermentation could go for only 3 days and be complete or take as long as 3 weeks!...Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is a hop ball? What can I do with it?
  Answer: The hop ball is a pretty cool little tool for any homebrewer. It has a few uses. You may use it to place your hops in during the boil, keeping all but the alpha acids from the hops inside the ball. Unlike using nylon bags for this purpose, the hop ball allows more of the hop flavor to come through for better utilization. If have a couple of them on hand, you can also use one to place your additives in, such as orange peel and cardamom seed. This allows you to extract the flavor from these agents during the boil, and keep them out of the fermenter. Another cool use for the hop ball is to place it inside a keg of beer. What happens is that the hop ball sinks to the bottom of the keg, which is right where the beverage out tube is at. Then all of the beer drawn off of the keg goes through the hops, giving your beer the freshest hop flavor and aroma....Click to Read full Answer