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Beer and Wine Making Supplies since 1995
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FAQ-Beer Additives

Question: How do I create more tannin flavor in my wine?
   Answer: Tannin is usually added to the must before fermentation begins, but this is not absolutely necessary and, in your case, not even desired. We add it to most of my non-grape wines before fermenting, but often adjust it upward by taste, just before bottling. This can be a delicate process....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What wine styles benefit from oaking?
   Answer: Several types of wine lend themselves well to oaking, most notably the Cabernet's, Chardonnay's, Merlot's, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Chianti, Burgundy, Fume Blanc, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, Shiraz, and Pinot Blanc, just to name a few. Generally speaking, German wines are not usually oaked. Depending upon the type of oak used, and the type of wine that is being oaked, a wide variety of desirable complexity can be achieved. In general, the scents of oak are non-fruit aromatics in nature. Oak can add flavors ranging from vanilla and coconut, to aromatic spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. It can even add an earthy or lightly organic tone to wine....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Why do I need to stabilize my wine before bottling? Can I bottle it immediately after it is stabilized, or should I wait ten days?
   Answer: Wine is stabilized to stop fermentation so that remaining yeast do not ferment added or residual sugar after bottling and cause the bottles to explode. After stabilizing, suspended yeast die off and lay down a thin layer of lees. If the wine has been bottled, the lees are trapped and are not only unsightly, but can impart off flavors. Our experience is that the dead yeast cells will precipitate out in 3-7 days. Allowing 10 days offers a 3-day margin of error, ensuring that all the dead yeast precipitates out. The wine is then racked off the lees, sweetened to taste and bottled....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Is my wine ready to bottle?
   Answer: If your wine is clear, stable, and free of CO2, it's ready. Clear means free of particles that could later fall out of suspension and leave a deposit in the bottles. Stable means finished fermenting and with enough sulfites (SO2) present to prevent oxidation and spoiling. Free of CO2 means that although the fermentation may be finished, a wine can still be saturated with carbon dioxide. If it is, it will go into the bottles with the fizziness intact, and depending on the conditions, could expand and push the corks out (or worse, break the bottles), or provide you with the dubious pleasure of drinking a sparkling wine that’s supposed to be still (sparkling Merlot , anyone?). To get rid of CO2, stir your wine....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What causes hydrogen sulfide (HS2) contamination (rotten egg smell)?
   Answer: There are many things that can cause hydrogen sulfide contamination, all are preventable: • Too much sulfites, usually the result of grapes being dusted with too much sulfur during the growing season. • Lack of proper nutrients (nitrogen, yeast hulls) during fermentation. • Yeast combining with various forms of sulfur. • Bacterial contamination due to poor sanitation techniques. That being said, here are the things you can do to prevent H2S contamination: • Add proper amounts of sulfites to wine. • If making wine from scratch (not from a kit), add a proper amount of yeast nutrient (#8334) prior to pitching yeast. • Use proper yeast for the wine you’re making, and make sure it has not passed the expiration date or gotten too hot in storage. • Maintain sanitary conditions for your equipment and must (especially prior to pitching yeast)....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What head space do I need in my secondary when making wine?
   Answer: You’ve got your wine transferred and are ready to add the metabisulphite to your wine. Head space becomes important after you have added the metabisulphite because you are killing the yeast. Up until now, your wine has been fermenting and that creates a CO2 layer over the wine. This CO2 layer protects the wine from oxidizing, and can help prevent bacteria from floating into the wine. CO2 isn’t much help from protecting the wine from bacteria, but it does help a little. Once you add metabisulphite the yeast starts to be killed off and you lose your CO2 layer. Now your wine is unprotected from oxidizing. You do want a small amount of air to contact the wine because this is what is going to help age the wine. A small amount of air will allow the wine to slowly oxidize, but it will also help the alcohol to mellow and the flavors to blend better. Wine makers get in trouble because they leave a large air gap during this stage, and all of a sudden they end up with a prune juice tasting wine. Not very appealing for most people....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What ratio would I use for 5 gallon glass carboys to get good oaking results? I usually bulk age both chardonnays and reds for 10-12 months.
   Answer: For new barrel extraction rates, the recommended ratio is 2 - 2.5 oz Oak Cubes for use in a 5 gallon carboy . We always recommend that you start with the lighter ratio for first time use, as you can always add more oak after 8 weeks. We recommend a minimum contact time of 8 weeks to allow for the full integration of the oak flavors. Also, as you will be aging the wine on the Oak Cubes for a year or so, you may even want to bring the ratio down a little lighter....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I add berries to my wine?
   Answer: Freezing the berries first concentrates the sugar, breaks down the cell walls and aids the pectic enzyme considerably. Thaw completely, then cull through the berries, discarding any unsound ones and removing any stems and greenery. Chop them roughly and put in a sterilized nylon straining bag tied closed. Crush them with your hands inside the primary. Ferment 7-10 days, gently squeeze, and discard. Continue fermentation as instructed with your kit....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is the best temperature to ferment my wine?
   Answer: Most Wine ingredient kit instructions tell you to ferment your wine within a specific temperature range. Midwest recommends 65 °F to 75 °F. Yeast thrives at these temperatures, and also likes to be kept at the same temperature until its done doing its work. If the fermentation area is too cool, the wine will ferment very slowly. This will lead to an excess of CO2 gas in the wine, and it may not be ready to stabilize and fine in the expected time frame. Additionally, the fining agents included with Winexpert kits don’t work well at temperatures outside of the 65 °F to 75 °F range. Below 64 °F your wine kit may not clear at all! Since most people keep their house at around 68 °F, just leaving your fermenter at room temperature should work out great....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Do I need to use preservatives in my wine?
   Answer: Preservatives (sulfites) are an important part of wine making. Don’t worry about adding them to your home-made wine. Not only do they keep wine from developing infections, they also keep the wine from oxidizing. If you are concerned about the use of sulfites in wine read on!...Click to Read full Answer


Question: When should I add the flavoring extract?
   Answer: You may add the prescribed dosage of extract at bottling time in your bottling bucket....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How can the pH of the mash be adjusted?
   Answer: If the pH of the mash is too low (too acidic) the addition of calcium carbonate will work well to raise it. In some cases, especially if you are making a very dark beer, you may have to settle for a mash pH as low as 5.0 but under no circumstance should you add more than 2 teaspoons of calcium carbonate to a five-gallon mash. If the pH of the mash is too high (too basic/alkaline) the addition of calcium in the form of calcium sulfate (gypsum) or calcium chloride is the most acceptable way to lower it. In either event, starting with ½ teaspoon additions at a time is recommended. Mix well and recheck the pH after each addition....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is the correct acid level for wines? How do I adjust the acid level up or down?
   Answer: The following are guidelines for the desired acid levels in various types of wines. Individual tastes may vary, so make adjustments according to your own palate: Dry White Wine—0.65 % - 0.75 % Sweet White Wine—0.70 % - 0.85 % Dry Red Wine—0.60 % - 0.70 % Sweet Red Wine—0.65 % - 0.80 % These figures represent total acidity as a percentage by volume, known as the titratable acidity, or T.A. for short. You may test the acidity of your wine using the Acid Testing Kit (#8220) or a pH meter (# 6436)....Click to Read full Answer


Question: I don’t want to invest in expensive equipment, is there anything cheaper to make a small batch of fruit wine?
   Answer: You’ve got some fruit lying around, but you’ve never tried to make wine before and you aren’t sure if making wine is for you. This is something that we hear all the time at Midwest, and there are some options that are very inexpensive to give fruit winemaking a try. Let us tell you now that there is no cheap way to go on the fermentation equipment. What we are talking about here is the crushing and pressing equipment that can be very expensive to buy. Don’t go cheap on the fermentation equipment as you will live to regret it. Crushers A crusher is a very handy item to have when making larger amounts of wine. They make life so much easier, but they are not at all necessary to make wine. If you have several people willing to roll up their sleeves, get dirty, and sweat a bit, then you can make your own crusher. Presses There really isn’t a cheap replacement for a press, but there is a way to squeeze the juice out of the fruit without having to invest in one. Take a nylon straining bag, or even a clean pillow case will work, fill the bag ½ way full with fruit, and wring out the bag like you would a wet towel. Hint: Do not use a fruit juicer to extract the fruit. We’ve heard so many people burn up the motor that we’ve lost count. Feet good, fruit juicer bad....Click to Read full Answer


Question: I’m allergic to sulfites. Can I make wine without them?
   Answer: The amount of sulfite in a homemade wine is roughly 1/6 to 1/8 of the amount compared to a store bought bottle of wine. Some people believe that they are allergic to sulfites, and want to leave them out of their kits. While this is their option, it’s a bad idea. True sulfite allergies are extremely rare, and if someone has a reaction to drinking wine, it’s almost always due to some other cause. Besides, yeast make sulfites themselves during fermentation, so no wine can ever be sulfite-free, no matter what. Without the added sulfites, the kit will oxidize and spoil very rapidly. It will probably start to go bad in less than 4 weeks, and be undrinkable in less than three months. Also, if the sulfite is left out, but the sorbate is added, the wine could be attacked by malolactic bacteria, which will convert the sorbate into the compound hexadienol, which smells like rotting geraniums and dead fish. The bottom line is this: if you do not add the sulfite to the kit, neither Midwest, nor Winexpert can guarantee the wine, so think carefully before you choose not to add it....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Why do I need to stir my wine when adding stabilizers and fining agents?
   Answer: When it comes time to stabilize and fine the wine, it has to be stirred vigorously enough to drive off all of the CO2 that has accumulated during fermentation. This is because the dissolved gas will attach to the fining agents, preventing them from settling out. You need to stir hard enough to make the wine foam, and keep stirring until it will no longer foam. Only then will the gas be driven off so the fining agents can work their magic. The Whip Wine Degasser (#G9100) is the perfect tool for this....Click to Read full Answer


Question: I just racked my wine and it stinks like rotten eggs! Can I fix it? HELP!
   Answer: Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is the rotten egg odor you smell, and it usually forms at the end of fermentation. Most home winemakers won’t notice a smelly problem until the first racking. If you do smell rotten eggs, the quicker you can act, the better your chances of saving the wine. If it is too long a time before you treat the wine, hydrogen sulfide will react with other carbon compounds in the wine to create mercaptans, and later into disulfides. These are extremely difficult to remove from your wine once they are present, so the faster you can detect and treat your wine for hydrogen sulfide, the better. Many sources suggest that you add copper sulfate to your wine, but Midwest advises against this. While a very, very, VERY small amount of copper sulfate will take care of your H2S problem, it is poisonous. Big wineries use copper sulfate, but Midwest suggests a kinder, gentler approach, using chemicals that most winemakers already have on hand. First, measure the level of sulfites in your wine using the SO2 Test Kit (#8262). If the wine is deficient, treat the wine to 50 p.p.m. sulfites. Next, rack the wine two or three times, making sure to splash it around a lot as the wine is transferred between vessels. This aeration introduces oxygen to the wine, and will help counteract the hydrogen sulfide. Replace the airlock, and let it sit overnight. This should take care of the problem in most cases, but if it still stinks, perform these extra steps: Buy a piece of copper flashing from from a home supply store. Hold the piece of copper in the neck of the carboy while the wine is being racked, so that the wine runs over the copper surface and into the carboy. Fine and/or filter the wine. By now, that stinkiness should be greatly reduced. If you STILL detect a smell, try gelatin finings (#8330) in the amount stated on the package. After fining, we suggest running the wine through a filter. The Vinebrite Filter (#7145) is fairly inexpensive, and works pretty well. If you’ve done all this to no avail, you could try using copper sulfate. But BE CAREFUL! Add NO MORE than 0.5 ml per gallon. Afterward, be sure to fine the wine with bentonite (#8310) or Sparkolloid (#8363) according to package instructions. Either of these will remove the copper sulfate. Then filter to remove the fining agent....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Do you carry anything but boxed wine kits?
   Answer: Sometimes you just want to be able to experiment when making wine. Ingredient kits are great because they include everything, and are very easy to make. However, maybe you want to make a blend, or you just want something different. Midwest offers a couple different options for those that want to expand their wine making horizons. If you still want to make a grape wine, try Alexander’s canned juice concentrate. They come in many different varieties and allow you to make all of one type of wine, or you can blend them to your liking. They are made like the kit boxes, but they do not have any other ingredients. So make sure you have the yeast, metabisulphite, etc. on hand before you make these wines. One can is good for 3 gallons of wine. If you want 6 gallons, then use two cans for best results. The directions are right on the can. Maybe you want to branch out even further on your wine making abilities. Try making a fruit wine....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What type of yeast do I want to use with my fruit wine?
   Answer: Make sure that you use a lid and airlock on your fermenter to prevent nasty things like bugs or bacteria from ruining your wine. Here is a little breakdown for what type of yeast works well with what fruit: Montrachet: A very good general use wine yeast for most fruits. When in doubt use this yeast. One of the more neutral yeasts available so that the fruit flavor is what comes through the most. Cotes Des Blanc/ K1V-1116: These yeast strains are very good for fruit that produces a white wine look at the end. Wines such as apple or pear will work very well with this strain of yeast....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What can I use to sweeten my wine?
   Answer:

It isn’t unusual for a homemade wine to be a little dry because we simply add the yeast and let it ferment. A winery will take measurements throughout the fermentation process and will stop the fermentation when they believe the wine is at the correct sweetness level. If your wine is a bit dry for your liking, then we’ll show you how to sweeten it up.

  • Wine Conditioner
  • Grape Concentrate
  • Sugar
  • Fruit Juice

...Click to Read full Answer


Question: Can I use frozen concentrate to make wine?
   Answer: You can make wine using frozen concentrate if you want. This is particularly handy in the harsh winter months, or when a fruit is out of season. Frozen concentrate works because the makers of the concentrate rarely use preservatives because the juice is frozen. Anything with a fermentable sugar can be used to make wine. Frozen concentrate is also very useful in the situation that you need to top off some of your fruit wine. Let’s say you’ve made an apple wine from fresh fruit in late October, and now it is mid-November and you’ve just added metabisulphite to your wine. You notice that you have a ½ gallon of head space in your fermenter, which is not good. Seeing apples are out of season, you need something to top off the wine with. Instead of using water, make up some frozen apple juice. Your wine gets to remain at full flavor, and you don’t run the risk of oxidizing, or getting a bacteria, in your wine....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I use gelatin finings?
   Answer: Positively charged fining agent for wine and beer. The most powerful of the organic finings. Using more than the recommended amount will remove too much of the color and flavor compounds from wine and some of the body from the beer. Gelatin can be used to take out phenols and tannins in red wines. Use 1 tsp. of gelatin finings per 5 gallons of wine. First, soak the gelatin in cold water for 1 hour. Then boil it to dissolve before adding to your wine. Rack your wine within 2-3 weeks. Store gelatin finings in a cool and dry location. This fining is derived from the hooves of horses and cows, gelatin has a positive charge that will aid in attracting and settling suspended yeast. Dissolved and prepared gelatin is added just before bottling the beer. Prepare the gelatin by adding 1 tablespoon to 1 pint of cold water and gently heat until dissolved. Do not boil the gelatin solution. Add the solution to the beer and allow 1 - 2 weeks to settle out before bottling your beer....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I adjust my water?
   Answer: It is much easier to add minerals than to remove them. The home brewer who intends to make a variety of adjustments and is using very soft, distilled or reverse osmosis (R/O) water is very fortunate. The adjustments are only a matter of adding one or more mineral salts to achieve the desired qualities. Various mineral salts can be added to water and we strongly urge the home brewer to acquire at least a basic understanding of water chemistry before adding any chemical to water that will be used for consumption. The following information will give the home brewer some indication of the amounts of mineral salts needed in order to achieve an increase in ion concentrations....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Is testing the pH of my wine that important?
   Answer: When a vintner makes a wine from juice concentrate testing for acid or pH levels really isn’t that important  because the juice is pretty well balanced from the manufacturer.  Unless you know you are using an out of  balance water, there is very little reason to have to do any testing.  For those that are making wine from  fresh/frozen fruit then testing becomes a very important thing to do because fresh fruit will have levels that  differ from season to season, and can be highly acidic.   Testing your wine isn’t very hard, or expensive.  You can use test strips for testing pH levels, or a pH pen is a  better option.  pH pens give you a more accurate reading, and are very helpful when you are adjusting the  levels.  The reason for testing your wine is because if your pH or acid levels are off you can end up with a dull, or flat,  tasting wine.  Or, you can end up with a wine with a “bite” to it.  If you take the time to balance the wine you will  find that you end up with a much better flavor, and a wine that people can’t stop talking about.   ...Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is Polyclar and how do I use it?
   Answer: Polyclar is a stabilizing additive for wine or beer which removes polyphenolic compounds and oxidized melanoidins. This means that when used in beer it will remove haze-causing husk tannins and oxidized compounds that contribute to off flavors. When used in a finished wine it can help to remove haze-causing proteins. More importantly, it can remove oxidized flavor and aroma compounds, making the wine taste fresher...Click to Read full Answer


Question: How much fruit extract flavoring should I use in my beer?
   Answer: Strawberry/Kiwi: 0.7% (4-5 oz/5 gal) Blueberry: 0.3% (2 oz/5 gal) Apricot: 1.0% (6-7 oz/5 gal) Apple: 0.3% (2 oz/5 gal or to taste) Cherry: 0.5% (3-4 oz/5 gal) Blackberry: 0.7% (4-5 oz/5 gal) Raspberry: 1.0% (4-5 oz/5 gal) Peach: 0.8% (4-5 oz/5 gal) Cranberry: 0.5% (3-4oz/5 gal)...Click to Read full Answer


Question: Why does my wine have a brown tint to it?
   Answer: The reason your wine browns is because it is oxidizing. The biggest cause of early oxidation in homemade wines is the failure to use sulfites, or not using them properly. The second biggest cause of early oxidation is improper handling of the wine during fermentation, rackings, aging, bottling, and storage. All wines oxidize, but well-made, well-protected, and well-balanced wines resist oxidation for many, many years, and exceptional wines can last for 50-100 years without doing so....Click to Read full Answer


Question: My wine has no fermentation after 72 hours...
   Answer: You’ve given the yeast a chance to start, but yet you still see nothing. At this point, this isn’t a cause for concern because there are many things that can help get the fermentation process started. Some options are very simple, while others can take some time. It is best to follow these ideas in the order that they are written here so that you do not cause your wine problems by skipping steps. Troubleshooting • Move the wine to a warmer area to see if the yeast doesn’t kick in. Give it 24 hours before you move on to the next step. • Create a yeast starter. To do this you need a packet of yeast, some juice from the fermenter, table sugar, and a glass. Make sure that the glass is sanitized. Add 16 oz. of the juice (2 cups), 1 tablespoon of table sugar, and the yeast to your glass. In roughly 15 minutes to an hour you should notice foam forming on top of the glass. This lets you know that the yeast is active and ready to go. Just pour the active yeast into your fermenter. DO NOT stir the yeast in. • If all else fails you can do what we refer to as a reverse starter. How this works is you start with a normal yeast starter, like the directions above. But instead of pouring the yeast starter into the fermenter, you add a little bit of the juice, or must, to the starter instead. So, you essentially need another fermenter to be able to do this....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How to make a Heather Ale?
   Answer: Heather Ale is a style of beer that was made many years ago using heather tips in place of hops, which had not begun being used in beers yet. Heather was a way to provide more flavor to a beer that was otherwise boring. Well, beers made centuries ago weren’t exactly boring, but they weren’t exactly like beers we drink today either. So, if you are looking to make something that tastes like it came right out of the past, try a heather ale. Heather has a flavor similar to a subtle chamomile/mint blend with a hint of lavender. You can also use heather in Mead or wines. Heather goes particularly well with honey....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I use oak cubes?
   Answer: These high quality oak cubes allow you to achieve the same quality of oak flavor that you taste in good wines. These are the same cubes used by many wineries in Napa Valley. Oak Staves (the wooden strips that oak barrels are constructed of) are air-dried for two to three years, then traditionally fire-toasted and cubed. Since three varieties are available, you are able to blend different levels of toast to achieve different effects. While the heavy-toast cubes are recommended for big reds that benefit from a heavy, caramelized oak flavor, they may also be used to supplement the medium-toast cubes for a subtler flavoring. Many of our customers use a blend of French and American cubes, usually using the French cubes in a higher percentage. We have had success blending all three oaks, again using the French in the highest percentage. Recommended usage is 3 oz. of cubes for every 6-gallons with a contact time of 4-8 weeks....Click to Read full Answer


Question: Why Blend Wines?
   Answer: There are several reasons a home winemaker might want to utilize blends. A good example is to blend a wine that is too dry with one that is too sweet to create a more balanced wine. In this instance, the two wines should be similarly based, both Merlot's, for example. You may also want to blend wines to create a new flavor profile, integrating complexities from varying bases. Blending grape and non-grape wines can yield some interesting and delicious results. It is the ultimate way of creating a new flavor profile. In most cases, the grape wine will predominate, both because it brings body to the blend and because fruit flavors seem to blend better with grape than the other way around. Another way of saying this is that grape wines tend to absorb a fruity character from non-grape wines, but non-grape wines tend to lose their fruitiness to grape wines. With a little experimentation and patience, blending is easy to do....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I use isinglass?
   Answer: This fining is a gelatinous substance derived from the internal membranes of fish swim bladders. Isinglass is positively charged but its effectiveness in settling yeast will vary with the strain of yeast being employed. Follow the instructions that will come with it. Positively charged fining agent. Liquid isinglass is good for clearing up white wines, particularly those that have been aged with oak. Stir 1 fluid oz into 6 gallons of wine and allow 2-3 days to clear. Store tightly sealed in a cool place....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I determine the alcohol content of my wine?
   Answer: Simple subtraction. Take a hydrometer reading right before you pitch the yeast into your must (see “How do I take a hydrometer reading?” in FAQs). Make a note of this reading, which should be in the range between 1.060 and 1.120, depending on the recipe and style you are making. After the fermentation is complete, take another hydrometer reading right before you bottle. This reading will usually fall between 0.090 and 1.010, again depending on the style of wine made. Then you simply subtract the second reading from the first, and consult a conversion chart (such as the one found in “First Steps in Winemaking”, or many other winemaking books) to determine the alcohol content. Let’s say that your starting gravity was 1.085, and your terminal gravity was 1.010. This makes a difference of 0.75. Looking this up in the conversion chart will tell you that your wine is 10.4% A.B.V. (alcohol by volume)....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do the various clarifying agents work? What is the best way to achieve clarity in my beer?
   Answer: One of the most consistent ways to achieve clarity is by using Irish moss in the boil. Many brewers do this with every batch. Irish moss is a seaweed derived fining that accelerates protein coagulation during the end of the boil which helps prevent chill haze.This is called hot break. You simply put a teaspoon in during the last 15 minutes of the boil. Super Irish Moss is a proprietary blend of negatively charged, red seaweed based, Kapa and Lambda carrageenans. It is designed to attract the positively charged haze-forming proteins together in the brew kettle and primary fermenter, and to then settle out. Whirlfloc tablets are Irish moss in tablet form, negating the need to measure. Using a wort chiller also aids in clarifying, as it cools rapidly, giving you a good cold break, which helps to remove additional material from the solution. Try to leave as much break material as possible in the kettle, so that you will have only minimal amounts present in your fermenter. You may also use fining agents, such as gelatin finings or Polyclar, after primary fermentation is complete. These products will remove the compounds that cause haze, but they may pull out some of the yeast as well. This may result in lower carbonation levels, so Midwest suggests that you add some yeast before bottling. A dry yeast will work fine for this, as most of the flavor imparted by the yeast takes place during primary fermentation....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I use oak chips?
   Answer: A good proportion of oak chips for home use is 3 grams of chips per liter. To use oak chips, rinse them in a mild sulfite solution of about 10 ppm, which is equivalent to one Campden tablet per five-gallon batch Add oak chips to your wine after it has been racked for bulk aging. Use a glass or a stainless steel container. A handful of chips (about one-quarter cup) is all that is necessary to add complexity to the wine. Taste your wine two to three days after you have added the oak chips....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I add fruit flavor to my beer?
   Answer: The addition of fruit to a beer has become more popular over the years as brewers have been trying to find different ways to impress their friends. Up until a few years ago, you never heard of a blueberry Stout, or raspberry wheat, but now there are several breweries making these types of beers. It might take a try or two to come up with the perfect combination, but the results can be very rewarding. Fruit Extract One of the easiest ways to add a fruit flavor to your beer is by the use of a fruit extract. Just like vanilla extract, fruit extract comes in liquid form and you just pour it into your beer. Real Fruit Some people like to use real fruit from their garden, or frozen works well too. Extracts are great from an ease of use standpoint, but they do represent the perfect flavor of a fruit....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How do I make fruit wine using the Oregon or Vintner’s Harvest fruit purees?
   Answer: There are many ways to make wine with the purees. It comes down to personal preference. Oregon Fruit Products one gallon recipe (see chart) calls for one can of puree with enough sugar to bring the original gravity to 1.090 or higher. This produces a wine with an alcohol level of 12% by volume and will remain stable for a long time. To make a fruit wine comparable to using a 96 oz. can of fruit base, use two cans of Oregon Fruit Products Puree per five gallons and enough sugar to bring the gravity to 1.090 or higher. Add natural fruit flavoring enhancers to bring out flavor and give more aroma....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is temporary hardness and what affect does it have on the brewing process?
   Answer: Temporary hardness is determined by the measure of bicarbonates. The hardness that bicarbonate ions impart is temporary because it is easily precipitated and is removed when water is boiled or treated with certain acids. A bicarbonate measure greater than 100 ppm is undesirable because of its contribution to the alkalinity of water, which in turn, imparts harsh and bitter flavor to beer. Highly alkaline water creates an imbalance in pH affecting adequate mash conversion and, if used for sparging, will extract undesirable harsh grainy flavors. Permanent hardness is determined by the measure of calcium and magnesium ions, the calcium being more significant. It is that portion of total hardness remaining after the water has been boiled. Generally, permanent hardness and the calcium ion lower the pH of water. A certain amount of permanent hardness is desirable in the homebrewing of all-grain beers-where enzyme conversion works best at a mash pH of 5.2-5.6....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How long should I store a wine before I drink it?
   Answer:

Although the concentrate kits can be done quickly, some winemakers elect to store the wine longer before they start to drink it. The reason is because a good wine can become a great wine when you allow it to age. However, this is all a matter of taste to the individual. Some wine drinkers really enjoy a bold, strong, new tasting wine, and others want a very smooth, laid back, easy drinking wine. Try a bottle of your wine from time to time until you are happy with the flavor. There is no set time frame on when you will enjoy the wine that you made.The following are some general considerations for wine storage.

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Question: Why does it take so long for my wine to be drinkable? I want it now!
   Answer: Wine kits are ready to bottle in 28 or 45 days. This does NOT mean that they are ready to drink. If you really, really can’t wait, the minimum time before a kit tastes good is about one month after bottling. This is long enough for the wine to get over the shock of bottling, and begin opening up to release its aromas and flavors. Three months is much better, and the wine will show most of its character at this point. For most whites, however, and virtually all reds, at least six months is needed to smooth out the wine and allow it to express mature character. Heavy reds will continue to improve for at least a year, rewarding your patience with a delicious bouquet....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What can I use to clear my beer?
   Answer: Fining agents are a very effective method of producing a brilliantly clear beer. Many brewers use Irish Moss with every batch. Inexpensive and easy to use, just throw a teaspoonful into the boil for the last 15 minutes. Polyclar is another very effective fining agent that is stirred into your secondary two to five days before bottling or kegging. Gelatin finings and isinglass are two other widely used additions for achieving clarity....Click to Read full Answer


Question: I’m not sure if I’m ready to spend the money on an oak barrel. What other methods are there for oaking?
   Answer: Thankfully, some math wiz that happened to enjoy making wine at home figured out that instead of using a wooden barrel to surround the wine, why not let the wine surround small pieces of oak? Thus, oak chips, cubes, staves, and powders were born. These products allow the home vintner to achieve the same great oak flavor we desire - without the huge, costly barrels. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Using Oak Spirals The highest quality form of (alternative) oaking, Oak Spirals are made of premium American and French Oak- no sapwood, no bark, no knots. The unique process distributes the flavor evenly and can fully flavor a barrel in as little as 6 weeks. Spirals can be added to old barrels or carboys. Use 2 sticks per 5 gallons for optimal oak flavor and character. What most commercial wineries and breweries use today, these spirals are highly recommended by Midwest....Click to Read full Answer


Question: My wine is too dry, the gravity is below 0.990, and tastes pretty lousy. How can I fix it?
   Answer: The first step is making sure the wine is stabilized and will not referment in the bottle. Midwest also suggests adding one crushed Campden tablet per gallon to the wine and let it sit 24 hours before sweetening or bottling--to keep the wine from absorbing oxygen during the process. Next is choosing the method. You can either (1) add sugar, (2) blend with a too-sweet wine, (3) use grape concentrate, or (4) blend with a sweeter juice. The choice is yours. If you add sugar (by far the easier method), boil a measured amount of water and slowly dissolve a double-measured amount of sugar into it. The 2 to 1 by volume ratio is still the best. Sweetening a too-dry wine does not give immediate feedback. It takes a couple of hours to a day for the wine to fully absorb the sugar and integrate it into its character....Click to Read full Answer


Question: What is a cap? What is “punching down”? Why is it important to punch down?
   Answer: If you’ve ever attempted to make a big red wine at home from fresh grapes - but the finished product lacked color, taste, or astringency - chances are, your wine could have benefited from a winemaking technique known as “punching down”. If you make wines from kits, you will certainly benefit from this knowledge, but you won’t have to “punch down” since most kits do not include grape solids like skins, stems, and seeds....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How can I prevent a stuck fermentation?
   Answer: There are a few simple things you can do to ensure that you never have a stuck fermentation. First, just make sure your fermentation area is between 65 and 75 °F. Make sure that your equipment is properly cleaned and sanitized. Always use fresh yeast, and make sure you are using the yeast called for in the recipe. Don’t use any old packet you have laying around. Hydrating your yeast before pitching also helps, but make sure that you pitch the yeast within 20 minutes of hydration. Adding yeast nutrient (#8334) before pitching the yeast gives the yeast nourishment so that it will stay healthy throughout the fermentation process. Use 1 teaspoon per gallon. Lastly, aerate the must by vigorously stirring it just prior to pitching the yeast. Yeast needs oxygen to begin fermentation....Click to Read full Answer


Question: How much fruit do I want to add to my beer?
   Answer: Fruit is becoming very popular to add to beer, and is not that difficult to work with. You can use fresh or frozen fruit for most beers. Most like to add the fruit to the wort with 15 minutes left of the boil. Then the fruit is kept in the primary fermenter for a week (unless otherwise noted). The amount of fruit used is relative to how much you want to taste the fruit in your beer. Here's a list of suggested quantities which can be tailored to suit your own taste. A few fruits you want to use fresh because they do not store in a freezer well. Fresh is usually the better way to go, but availability can dictate having to use frozen fruit. Don’t be afraid to experiment with the amounts depending on how much fruit flavor you want in your beer. Hint: Use a straining bag or muslin bag to hold the fruit. This way you end up with less mess to clean up in your fermenter....Click to Read full Answer

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Midwest Homebrewing Supplies
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Midwest Supplies Home Beer and Wine Making
Midwest Supplies Home Beer and Wine Making
Midwest Supplies Home Beer and Wine Making
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