The MM2 has a 6061 aluminum block frame housing two steel rollers on oil-impregnated bronze bushings. The drive shaft and all axles are integral to the roller rather than screwed into the ends, which makes it possible to drive the mill clockwise or counter-clockwise. Stainless knurled knobs allow a gap spacing adjustment range of .070". You will need to fabricate/supply a base, hopper, and corded electric drill. * Fully adjustable mill * Dual eccentric adjusters: 0 to .070" gap - built from STAINLESS STEEL for no galling * 6 lbs / minute * 6" upgraded steel rollers * Drill-drive - CW, OR CCW * Alloy frame * SAE 841 oil impregnated bronze bushings * 1.5" diameter steel rollers * 3/8" integral drive shaft w/3 flats for drill driving, 2" long outside frame * 3/8" integral axles
Customer ReviewsWrite a review
It crushes instead of shreds like a corn mill. I use a low speed drill and run it at 250RPM. The ability to adjust the crush is important. Some grain like Carapils are smaller and harder and need to be crushed separately and at a tighter setting._x000D_
It holds a lot of grain, with the hopper, and because it's adjustable, can crush it into small bits that make it easier to extract sugar. It's heavier than it looks, and you will need a good drill to power it.
Really disappointed with this purchase. I spent more money than I wanted to, but I thought this was a well built mill, and it is. However, there should be a huge warning label stating that it will not crack corn._x000D__x000D_After doing some sheet metal fabrication because they sent me a hopper for the MM3, not the MM2 hopper that I ordered (after waiting for almost a month to get it), I got everything together. I was ready to forgive the error because I modified the hopper to fit in about an hour. First, I maxed out the gap between the rollers, then chucked up the shaft in a heavy duty DeWalt drill, filled up the hopper with dried corn, and turned on the drill, expecting it to start spitting out perfectly cracked corn. All it did for the first few minutes was just spin. I made sure that I was turning it in the right direction, I shook the hopper, I varied the speed of the drill. I just wasn't working._x000D__x000D_So I dumped out the corn and added a small handful of kernels to see what was happening. The kernels were just bouncing off the rollers. It seems that the maximum gap is still too small to crack corn. All of a sudden, one kernel caught and the whole bunch were spit through. So I started just grinding one handful at a time. _x000D__x000D_Several times, the corn caused the rollers to instantaneously stop, but the drill kept going, slapping and twisting my wrist. Very painful. One time the mill/hopper itself nearly did a 360. I could have easily sliced open my arm on the sheet metal hopper when that happened. After coaxing a few handfuls through over a long period of time, and having my wrist twisted, I gave up._x000D__x000D_This machine either needs a disclaimer that it won't crack corn, or they need to offer a different set of eccentric cams that provide a wider gap. There is definitely enough room to off set the bushings more.
You don't want flour and thqts what you get from a lot of the cheap Corona style mills. The Monster Mill cracks grain into small pieces that can have the sugar extracted from them without causing a stuck sparge. Its made of harder metal and will last a life time. I got a low speed drill from Harbor Freight and can easily grind 30 pounds of grain for a nice 10 gallon batch.
I have always used inexpensive mills, and had a Corona style mill for a while, but it wore out. This is a much bulkier stronger mill that cracks the grain instead of making flour out of it. I used a drill and easily ground up 20 pounds of grain. Its a pleasure to use and will last a lifetime.