DetailsThe Fermenator is a beautifully designed product for the discriminating brewer. Its features provide commercial brewery functionality at a consumer friendly price. Its easy to use and loaded with standard features. The standard 7 gal., 14.5 gal., and 27 gal. sizes are perfect for 5, 10 and 20 gal. batches. Others sizes and custom features by request. Fermenator will ship directly from the manufacturer. Please allow a few extra days for delivery.
Stainless steel (Grade 304) is extremely durable and the easiest material to sanitize. It is impervious to heat, won't shatter like glass, and won't scratch, discolor and harbor bacteria like plastic.
The conical "uni-tank" offers many advantages to carboys:
- Dumping cold break & trub takes a couple minutes
- Collecting wort samples is quick and completely sanitary
- Can easily harvest yeast
- Pressurizeable for CO2 pumping
- Impervious to UV light that causes "skunking" in beer.
- Large open top makes scouring and sanitizing the interior a snap
- The rotating racking arm allows siphoning completely sediment free beer
Weld-free Interior: The Fermenator is the only weld-free interior fermenter on the market!! No stress about bacteria hiding in weld cracks or porosity found in all welds, even so-called sanitary welds. The surfaces of the Fermenator where the fittings penetrate are smooth (no weld "ripples") so it is a snap to clean and sanitize. Although the weld-free fittings are more expensive than welded fittings, we think it's well worth it for peace of mind and clean, bacteria-free beer.
Guaranteed 100% Leak Free!!! Stainless o-ring retainers hold o-rings firmly in place, eliminating any chance of rolling or leaking. The sealing design is identical to hydraulic systems under thousands of PSI.
Easy to clean weld-free fittings: All fittings used for the bottom dump and rotating racking arm are stainless steel high quality industrial fittings, not make shift hardware store parts and pipe fittings. And unlike welded fittings, ours can be removed for easy sanitizing. And our competitor's welded-in fittings can't be replaced if they get accidentally damaged or wear out! Last, but not least, the weld-free fittings allow you to orient the dump valve in any position you want, not where it happens to end up when tightening a welded fitting....such as facing the rear of the refrigerator!
Rotating Racking Arm: Thats right! The rotating racking arm is standard equipment!! Just like the Craft Brewers' huge conical fermenters. This feature allows you to start your siphon with the racking arm horizontal, and rotate it slowly downward until you just start picking up yeast sediment. Clearly the best and only way to siphon clear beer! And using the racking arm prevents wasting any beer or carrying sediment into your kegs which happens if you use the bottom dump to rack the beer. This exclusive design utilizes stainless flare fittings which cant hide bacteria like compression fittings can.
Lid hatch: Easy sanitary access to your fermenting beer. Minimizes exposure of the fermentables to oxidation and bacterial contamination when dry-hopping or adding finings as opposed to removing the lid entirely. This generous size opening also makes it much easier to pitch yeast than pouring through the small stopper hole.
Bolted leg system: Higher strength and spotless interior. New channel shaped legs offer improved strength and appearance. An exclusive welding process is utilized to install fasteners on the tank wall leaving the interior of the tank absolutely flawless and superior to TIG welded designs where weld distortion (rippling) is unavoidable. And the legs can be replaced in minutes if they are accidentally damaged!
New!! Pressure Capable Stainless Lid: Just like the big breweries, use CO2 pressure to pump your finished beer up to 6 feet above your fermenter to your kegs. Eliminates the need for elevating the fermentor above the kegs or bottling bucket. Ideal for chest freezers. Not intended for carbonation.
Wine-makers! Forms a 100% pressure and vacuum tight seal so no need for a floating lid! The sealing system is far superior to wine tanks and is completely impervious to oxygen. Most stainless wine fermenting tanks have a loose fitting lid for primary fermentation (to vent gas) and a floating lid for secondary fermentation (to prevent oxygen infiltration). This floating lid has an inflatable seal "tire" with a bicycle pump and must be checked periodically to be sure it hasn't deflated. It is also a source for bacterial contamination from the fermentation material on the walls of the fermentor. The blanket of CO2 on the surface of the wine from fermentation will protect the wine from oxidation. After complete fermentation has been verified remove the airlock and stopper and replace with a stopper with no hole.
- Dumping cold break & trub takes a couple minutes
- Details & Instructions
5.0 / 5.09 ReviewsWorth the priceIt feels professional grade but for home use. Easy to clean versus my plastic conicals. I recommend adding the extension legs to make kegging easier. It’s been worth the price!December 20, 2018Purchased
6 months agoAll in oneThe fermentor is beautiful and more importantly, it's functional. The beer stays in it until I'm ready to keg. It's never exposed to air and infection risk because you can remove the trub without moving the beer. After the beer is done, you can completely clean the insides so that nothing remains and the next batch won't get infected.January 31, 2014Self containedThe more I use it, the more I appreciate it. All the little extras that make it a great fermentor. It's easy to clean and there are no lips or surfaces for anything to hide._x000D_I don't need to rack, just drop out the trub and leave it in the same container.December 26, 2013welcome to the 21st centuryThis is an awesome experience using this fermentor. It gives me a lot of control, I can do everything in one place. I can remove yeast, rack, and take samples in one sterile environment. One piece stainless steel, it's a beauty to behold.August 29, 2013I really am enjoying using thisIts just awesome. I have a lot more access than with buckets. Its easier to harvest yeast, and test. It's well built and even better designed, having everything a brewer needs.July 8, 2013Love This ProductIt's totally awesomeMay 8, 2013This thing rulesI bet you already knew that thoughMay 8, 2013Awesome fermentor!This quality product is simply awesome. Fermenting in one vessel is a homebrewer's dream come true!September 28, 2012Awesome!I've had this fermenter for 4 months and i totally love it. Beer racking is fast and clean, take quick gravity samples free of bacterial contamination and its rotating arm makes kegging extremely smooth. Wish it was cheaper i would get one more.July 8, 2011
- Customer Q&A
Browse 11 questions Browse 11 questions and 10 answersWhat are the actual dimensions, height, width, weight of the 5 gal?BEST ANSWER: The info from the Blichmann site lists the dimensions of the 7-gallon Fermenator as 15 inches across, 27 inches tall. The unit would weigh about 37 lbs.when using a stainless steel fermenator like this particular type do you still need to have a secondary step using a carboy?BEST ANSWER: No, as you will be doing the "primary" and "secondary" fermentation in the conical fermenter. The idea is that when you drain away the yeasty material from the bottom of the fermenter after the primary fermenting is done, you have effectively "moved it to secondary". Once it's off the "trub" that forms in primary, it's safe to leave it for a longer time in "secondary" without danger of Autolysis. ( the process in which yeast will consume waste product, ruining a beer ) With a conical fermenter, you eliminate the actual moving of the beer from the primary fermenter to the secondary vessel. - Mike W, Midwest SuppliesCan the valves be changed to butterfly?How is the fermentation temperature controlled?BEST ANSWER: I put mine in a chest freezer that I use an external thermostat to set the temp. The chest freezer I use is a GE 7.0 cu ft.James - you transfer the chilled wort with yeast to the stainless steel fermenator and leave until ready for bottling? I want to get away from the plastic bucket but was thinking this would take it's place and I would still need the glass carboy.BEST ANSWER: You transfer cooled wort THEN pitch the yeast.Once primary fermentation is complete, you can open the bottom valve and get rid of the trub. Secondary fermentation can then proceed.Conical design already minimizes trub-wort surface area for contact anyway. My only concern is the increase in headspace and risk for oxidation. This is well covered in the forums.What other accessories (I'm thinking hose and connections) would I need to drain the Trub, and transfer the Beer to a bottling bucket?
I assume these are not included.BEST ANSWER: Mine came with a tube for draining the trub but not for transferring the beer to a bottling bucket. I had to purchase the NPT connections for that separately (already had them in my case), along with a tube for beer transfer to bottling bucket.
I would suggest adding the extension legs. Midwest doesn't list them on their site, but you can call customer service and order them. In my case it elevated the fermenter high enough that I don't have to keep it on a shelf or lift it to transfer to the bottling bucket, it just fits right under it.
As a side note, I like this fermenter WAY better than the Mini-Brew plastic conical fermenters I was using for many years. Easier to clean and get a much tighter seal. I high recommend this product.What is recommended way to prime beer for bottling in conical fermenator without transferring to a bottling bucket?BEST ANSWER: Probably the simplest method is to use a "by-the-bottle" priming method like "Fizz Drops"; this eliminates the need to stir the sugar solution into the beer, which could stir up the sediment.If I wanted to use CO2 to push the beer out into my corny keg I know I could use the blowoff on the top but is there a quarter inch connector that I can connect to my fluid in quick connect port on the keg?BEST ANSWER: You may be able to find a tri clamp fitting with a 1/4" MFL. Many will simply put their gas line through a rubber stopper and put that in the top of the fermentor lid. You could get a 1/4" MFL x 3/8" barb and stick that in the stopper. Most just get a dedicated gas line to switch in when they want to do the transfer.What size is 7 gallon Hight and width?How long does it take to brew lager with this? I am a new enthusiast.If I wanted to push the beer out using CO2 thru the blowoff is there an adapter that has a 1/4 nipple to go into my corny's fill line?